Tween and Teen Skin care 101: Part 2 with Licensed Esthetician, Patti Robinson
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A little more about today's episode:
Get answers to the most common questions around Tween and Teen Skin Care, from a Licensed Esthetician!
Today we cover important questions like:
- What age is best to start a skin care routine?
- What gentle skin care products are best for pre-teens and teens?
- What part does diet play in acne and skin conditions like eczema?
- What should you do when your face breaks out?
All these questions and more are answered today on our very special episode with Patti Robinson, a licensed esthetician and founder of Sapphire Skincare and Healing, in Portland, Oregon, who also offers skin care classes for tweens and teens!
[See Tween and Teen Skincare 101: Part 1 here]
Tween and Teen Skincare 101: Part 2 Episode Highlights
In today's episode we welcom Patti Robinson, a licensed esthetician and owner of Sapphire Skincare and Healing in Portland, OR.
Patti's background
Patti grew up in a family of 6 girls and had the worst skin of all of them. Her acne lasted as a teenager until she was mid 30's until she started experimenting with her diet. She found once she eliminated sugar, her skin improved.
Although her education was in Dietetics and she spent many years in the financial industry, about 12 years ago, she earned her esthetician license and opened Sapphire Skincare and Healing. Because of her own experience with skin problems, she wanted to help others help resolve their own skin issues.
*Patti's answers cover the majority of our interview; [My additions will be noted]
The most common questions around Tween (pre-teen) and Teen Skin Care
At what age should kids start a skin care routine?
Patti's opinion is, that if a child is willing and able to wash their face, no age is too early to start.
Even at the age of 6 of 7 you can't do any harm to the skin and the skin will just be more healthy for it.
If they don't initiate a desire, you'll want to make sure they have a consistent routine in place by the time they start showing signs of puberty, which may or may not include the onset of acne.
Skin care Routine for Children / Tweens / Teens
Start with a Basic Skin Care Routine
Morning-
- Gentle cleanser and
- Gentle moisturizer
- Sunscreen
Evening-
- Gentle cleanser and
- Moisturizer
What to do if their skin starts to break out
As they grow older, if their skin starts being problematic with signs of acne, you can always introduce a targeted serum. Vitamin C is just a fantastic serum for different reasons, or go with a gentle enzyme exfoliant but nothing aggressive like a harsh scrub.
What Should You Do If a Child is Resistant to a Skin Care Routine?
Start slower and more simple.
Try a more minimal routine like maybe just cleansing in the evening first for a while. That evening cleanse is important because they've been sweating, they've been outside, playing sports.
Then when they've been cleansing for a while, gradually add a moisturizer to that evening routine and once it seems like they've gotten into the groove of that evening routine you can start introducing a similar morning practice.
Also, make their routines FUN! Entice them with some fun stuff like soft, plush headbands, or colorful ponytail holders (for girls and boys), and of course, you must have a soft, flannel Fairface Washcloth!
What gentle skin care products really are best for pre-teens and teens?
You don't need to have separate products for pre-teens vs. teens, but more importantly the focus should be on using gentle products, that are suitable and address the needs of the child's skin type.
Normally this age there is usually skin sensitivity, but there could also be the start of acne and eczema, so if they do have skin issues, you just want to make sure you are using products that are not only gentle, but address the issue at hand.
Roccocco Botanicals
Patti's favorite skin care product line right now is Roccocco Botanicals.
The owner, Jayceen Drummond, is a cosmetic chemist and educator, who is constantly keeping up with ingredient studies and either updating her formulations or creating new products as necessary to resolve certain skin issues.
Jayceen's philosophy is that you don't have to be aggressive to resolve or enhance the health of the skin.
Jayceen's interest and passion stemmed from personal experience. Between herself and her 3 children. They've basically had every skin issue imaginable, so she went on a journey of studying skin and ingredients to help her own skin and her children's skin.
[*Often that's the way products are created (as was the case with Fairface Washcloths as well). Click About Us to read our story)]
Patti feels many of the skin care products on the market today just aren't keeping up with the science of certain ingredients and what they can help, as well as the science of the skin.
You never want to dehydrate or irritate the skin, no matter what the skin condition is.
[Shannon: So many people think harsher ingredients or scrubbing the skin will help get rid of their skin problems but it's the opposite, right?]
Absolutely.
Roccocco's line is not dehydrating, not irritating, they are very calming and are extremely effective. She's done all this research about what helpful ingredients are and what does help this skin issue, versus another.
And her line is completely non-comedogenic (products that do not have ingredients that are scientifically known to cause break-outs), except for 2 products that are geared more towards dry and aged skin. That science is also changing. What was thought to cause break-outs 10 years ago, maybe is proven to not be and vice versa, so you've really got to keep in touch with what the latest science is.
Because the Roccocco line is so hydrating and calming and gentle, it's perfect for children. They came out with 3 products that are specific for pre-teens and teens, who have clear skin or mild acne.
Patti carries this line so you can order from her and she can make suggestions and do some consulting and help with what would be beneficial to you. She can also reach out to Jayceen and get her opinion and recommendations.
Drug Store Skin Care Products for Children, Pre-teens and Teens
[Shannon: I use Vanicream Gentle cleanser. My dermatologist recommended it and for me, it's so gentle, that it's great for my Rosacea-prone sensitive skin. Do you think that would also be something suitable for younger kids?]
Yes, I do.
My suggestion would be to
- Go as bland and basic as possible for this younger age.
- Nothing aggressively exfoliating.
- Maybe something with a little salicylic if they're having some acne issues.
- Nothing that seems like it's going to be stingy, burney or aggressive.
You could also have an esthetician confirm whether a product is comedogenic or not, which I'm always keeping up on the latest information, and am happy to do.
How does Diet affect the skin: (i.e., what are common triggers for acne and eczema?)
The triggers seem to be very personal. For me, (Patti) it was definitely sugar. In my experience with clients, sugar and dairy are very, very common triggers for people. Lesser so, but also, are fast food, peanuts, and chocolate. There's a long list, but those are the the top.
[Shannon: If someone is using a gentle skin care routine but also eating foods that could be triggering acne, do you think it would be better to examine the skin care or diet?
If they stopped eating some of these trigger foods, do you think their skin would most likely clear up like yours did?]
I would say so, but I don't want to guarantee that. It's an individual thing about what the trigger is for people. These are the 2 biggest culprits, but the other big culprit is comedogenic (pore clogging) ingredients. So check those ingredients and if they are eating a lot of sugar and dairy, that would be the next thing to look at and do some experimenting like I did.
Diet and Eczema (common for pre-teens and teen)
Dairy is usually not an issue unless the child has some sort of sensitivity to it, but sugar is almost always a factor which eczema. That's not to say that if you reduce your sugar intake it will completely disappear, but it may help substantially.
[Shannon: I didn't ever realize that eczema and sugar had any relation. I did have some eczema back when I was about 14 years old and I had no idea that food had anything to do with eczema. ]
Sugar is in a lot of the packaged, processed foods.
Ways to help Eczema
You want to use an effective moisturizer to keep the skin calm and hydrated. Something basic, nothing irritating.
- Nurture that skin as much as you can.
- Don't use benzoyl peroxide in any form, even the lower percentage, with eczema. It will make eczema worse.
- Roccocco has some good products for hydrating and calming, which is what eczema needs. A product called CPR (calm, protect, revive) which you can also use as a body cream, and Rescue Balm, are perfect for eczema.
[Shannon: Let's jump back to acne and breakouts...When I was a teen and I would have break-outs, you know, your first response is, I want to pick my face. I want to get rid of this pimple so it can heal and be gone because it's so embarrassing. The real question all youth need to know and understand is-]
What should you do if you have acne, pimples, blackheads (is it ok to pick and pop?)
If a child has blackheads, or pimples or something more severe, unfortunately, they should do whatever they can to resist popping or picking. I totally get it. I had acne too and yes, I popped and picked and wanted it to just go away. I understand how difficult that can be.
Your hands are the most germy parts of your body and picking unfortunately can then cause infection...
[Shannon: Can it make acne worse? Can it spread it?]
Yes, because you are causing harm to the skin and it can get worse before it gets better.
If you're really picking and scraping, you can end up with life long scarring and pitting. It just further delays that natural healing process compared to if you just left it alone.
No judgment, I 've been there, done that, but you want to keep your hands off as much as possible.
Better Alternatives to Picking Pimples
[Shannon: What about pimple patches, ice, warm compress...what's the next best thing to do then?]
I'm not familiar with pimple patches, but just hearing about them they seem harmless, so to speak, but whether they're effective, you probably know more than I do. It seems that if you're covering a pimple with a patch, at least it would help reduce picking, right?
[Shannon: What I've heard is that it's a medicated patch, maybe it's benzoyl peroxide, I'm not sure]
Icing makes sense to me, especially if it's a severe case of acne, that can be very soothing and calming.
[Shannon: Can it help reduce inflammation if you have large pimples? Would it help to make them appear smaller?]
It would definitely reduce inflammation and also help with painful pimples.
More on Benzoyl Peroxide
You have to be careful, because if the percentage is high, it is extremely drying, dehydrating and irritating, which is counterproductive to taking care of your skin.
It can make acne or any other skin condition much worse.
The 2% version on the market is actually good. It's not drying, dehydrating or irritating so that would be what you want to look for if you want to experiment with a benzoyl peroxide. It's called Curoxyl 42 Benzoyl Peroxide Gel.
[Shannon: Can you get that just in the regular drug store?]
I think so. I can't say for sure though.
*Just another caution NOT to use benzoyl peroxide if you have both acne AND eczema because that eczema component is an issue.
There are other ingredients that can be used in place of using benzoyl peroxide for eczema.
[Shannon: I've heard people put steroid creams on eczema. Would that be something you'd recommend or need to prescribe?]
I would say go with a Dermatologist, us esthetician's aren't at that level of recommending prescription drugs. I don't want to give an opinion on that, a dermatologist could prescribe that if they think it would be beneficial for the degree of eczema.
What are Some Skin Challenges Pre-teens and Teens May Face and What Can Help?
[Shannon: we've already covered a lot of it, but is there anything you wanted to add?]
As far as challenges, it's get back to practicing that good hygiene and establishing that consistent routine. We talked about suggested strategies for adopting that regular regime, but it also might be helpful to have the child receive a facial, from a licensed esthetician (with a parent's consent of course). This may be a fun way to show them the process of a routine [Shannon: and how good it can feel].
Yes, and in this completely relaxing environment and it can also get them excited and enthusiastic about their skin care rather than a parent saying, "Cleanse with this tonight."
Why You Shouldn't Use a Regular Terrycloth Washcloth
[Shannon: You mentioned in your notes, do not use a standard terry cloth washcloth, which can be too rough and irritating]
Correct.
[Shannon: I know why we (Fairface) make soft flannel washcloths so there won't be any irritation to the skin. So terrycloth washcloths though, what kind of irritation can they lead to? Can they make conditions worse? Why shouldn't they use terrycloth?]
Because the terrycloth is more rough, so if you have acne lesions it could, similar to picking or popping, disrupt the lesions, making it worse, delaying that healing, possibly leading to scars.
Also, if you have sensitive skin, like you and I, I was prone to rosacea, and even to this day, when I wash my face, just with my hands, my face reddens up because I'm sensitive. So something rough, on just plain sensitive skin is going to irritate it and cause more inflammation.
[Try Fairface Washcloths instead of traditional terrycloth washcloths. Fairface Delicates are made with 2 layers of double-sided soft flannel. Gentle and non-irritating. ]
Skin Care Classes for Pre-Teens and Teens
[Shannon: Before we go, I really want to touch on your skin care classes. If I had an opportunity to learn about how to take care of my skin when I was 11, 12,...well, all through my teen years, I think it would have made a huge difference. I just did what my mom did, what my sister did. My mom would bring products home from the store and we would use them. They stung my skin. My skin type is very different than my other sisters'.
If I'd had a class like this, that could offer some guidance from a professional, I think it would have been wonderful. I want to hear more about your skin care classes and hopefully people who live in your area (Portland, OR) will take advantage of them and contact you because I certainly would have.]
Thank you very much.
Early on when I opened my business, I did some research on whether anyone was offering something like skin care classes for young people, and didn't see anything and thought, I'm definitely going to offer that. You get back to the, "parent vs. professional," teaching you and coaching you on how to take care of your skin. Plus, I just love having the classes and just seeing their attention and their eyes, like, "oh that's very interesting".
I usually have them practice their little routine in my studio. If they come with friends or sisters, I make sure to bring my plush headbands, and they all get in the bathroom and they're giggling and looking at each other. For me, it is very, very satisfying and I just think it's a good thing to do.
I offer 2 levels of skin care classes (separated by age, understanding and maturity, not because of skin care routine, necessarily)
Pre-teen Skin Care Class (age 9-12)
We cover basic topics in a language they can understand like:
- The structure of the skin
- The advantages of the oil on their face (the focus shouldn't be on getting rid of that oil because it's there for a good reason, for the health of the skin)
- Skin Types (even at that age, it doesn't mean everyone is just a sensitive skin, there could be other issues)
- Dietary Suggestions (the idea that food can influence their skin)
- Acne
- A good home skin care regime at that age
Teen Skin Care Classes (age 13-18)
All topics above are covered, in more detail
Plus:
- Exfoliation
- Sunscreen
The classes are bout 2 hours and they run $75 per child.
Group max would be about 5 youth
[Shannon: I just think it sounds wonderful and so helpful. Skin is such a big deal, well it's always a big deal, but particularly when you're growing up and trying to figure out how to do it right and how to take care of your skin.
We're not born knowing how to do that, necessarily, so I think this sounds so wonderful and helpful, and making it fun, something they can enjoy and look forward to and continue doing at home.]
Right, exactly. When I was little, and starting my little skin care routine, I was handed a bar soap, like an Ivory bar soap and that's horrible for skin.
[Shannon: Compared to the products now that are so gentle and nourishing to skin. It's come such a long way.]
Exactly.
Skin care isn't just for women! Patti offers skin care consultations and treatments for women, men, girls and boys. She has many male clients who love the relaxation of a facial in a soothing environment.
We also have a lot of male Fairface Washcloths customers as well, people who care about their skin and how it feels and looks!
[Shannon: Thank you Patti! This had been such a wealth of information. You and I both feel very passionate about helping, particularly this age group, just giving them the resources they need. It's a tough time of life anyway and when your skin starts acting up it can just be so detrimental to your self-esteem and feelings of self worth.
I think this information is going to be so helpful for so many people, so thank you so much for sharing all of your knowledge with us and for taking the time, sacrificing your time today, to do this with me.]
Of course, and likewise, thanks so much for the idea. This was a lot of fun and important as well, as you said.
____________________________
How You Can Contact Patti Robinson
- Pre-teen and Teen Skin Care Classes
- Skin Care Consultations and Treatments for Men, Women, Girls, Boys
Website: sapphireskincare.com
FB: sapphireskincare
IG: @sapphireskincare_healing
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Products mentioned
- Fairface Washcloths (soft flannel washcloths for tweens, teens, and all sensitive skin!)
- Roccoco Botanicals (*contact Patti to order and get recommendations)
- Vanicream gentle cleanser
- Other gentle cleansers that are *non-comedogenic
- Curoxyl 42 Benzoyl Peroxide Gel (the 2% more gentle version) *don't use if you have eczema
Thanks so much for being here!
The Fairface Podcast is hosted by Shannon Sorensen, Founder and CEO of Fairface; maker of Fairface Washcloths, the best washcloths for sensitive skin!
CONNECT with us on social media @FairfaceWashcloths
